Gucci presented its Cruise 2024 collection on Tuesday in Seoul, South Korea. Set against the backdrop of Seoul’s historical landmark, Gyeongbokgung Palace, the show doubled as a celebration of the 25th anniversary of the brand’s Korean flagship store, which opened in 1998. The first event of its kind in the majestical palace, Gucci is one of many in the luxury sector who are flocking to the South Korean city, which is fast becoming a prominent name in the fashion industry.
Although still a transitional time for the brand, following the exit of Alessandro Michele with the iconic ‘Twinsburg’ SS23 runway show. The Cruise collection acts as a prequel to new creative director Sabato De Sarno debut this September. However, the brand's in-house design studio has been doing a stellar job so far in creating the last two Gucci collections, giving us what may be a glimpse of the brand's new direction as designs begin to take on a more minimalistic look. The Cruise 2024 collection amplifies this, referencing looks from the Tom Ford era of the ’90s and 2000s.
The collection was a juxtaposition of surf and skate fused with fluid lines, fur coats and heritage tailoring, a hybrid collection of sorts. The coming together of clubwear and youth-driven subcultures was elevated by ceremonial dress. Reflected through the iconic hanbok bows which adorned both deconstructed jackets and scuba-inspired dresses alike. Layers played a key role on the runway, with models donning overcoats featuring metallic zippers over baggy jeans and jackets with detachable sleeves and compartments. Wet suit-inspired tops were paired with princess-cut satin maxi skirts, entwining versatility with practicality that could be seen throughout the collection. Accessories like thick-soled boots, long white driving gloves and sports goggles also stood out on the runway. Skateboards, snowboards, and surfboards made an unexpected debut giving many looks a sense of sporty ease.
Overall, the collection begs the question, is Gucci – much like other luxury brands moving towards a quiet luxury? Focusing on more practical and commercial designs which are more accessible to a greater audience.
